Zimbabwe - Reflections

After a 17-hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa, a tiny hotel-stay with the shower in the middle of the room and a bumpy 1-hour flight in a small plane to Bulawayo, we finally arrived at our destination: Zimbabwe. Once known as the bread basket of the Southern Region of Africa!

Allow me to share what I’ve seen with you. To express a little of how I felt when I travelled to Zimbabwe in 2008. The characters, the emotions, the beauty. Constantly blown away by creation and its infinite source of beauty and inspiration.

The drive from the airport through Bulawayo was not very long but the day I arrived, there was no gas at any of the stations. The city is small so most walk, ride bikes or scooters. Hitchhiking is popular on longer journeys since gas is scarce and prices are high.

Despite what you hear on the news, I feel safe. Though the situation here is tough, I do not feel afraid in any situation I have been in. A single party democracy has dominated the political arena since independence. However, most elections have been characterized by politically motivated violence and voter apathy.

Since the 1990s, the economy has declined in many respects. A combination of recurrent droughts, shortage of foreign currency, hyperinflation, the HIV/AIDS pandemic robbing the nation of its most productive class, the land reform program and international isolation has left the economy bleeding. The country has moved from being the grain basket of the region to relying on food imports and NGOs.

In past rainy seasons, the harvest was plentiful and self-sufficient farmers were able to produce enough food for the whole country and still maintain exports. Over the last number of years, the rain patterns have changed greatly affecting food production. The economy is agriculture-based, supplemented by mining and manufacturing.

A two-litre bottle of coke costs about the equivalent of 12 US dollars. So the stores do not have much stock on the shelves and it is a difficult journey to find the things you need. The inflation rate is over 1,594 and forever changing; therefore, everything is so expensive. I am a trillionaire here because 1 US dollar is 100 billion dollars, so 10 US dollars are 1 trillion dollars [2008]. That exchange rate is hard to grasp or imagine.

Theft and crime have risen in part because of inflationary economic issues. Good jobs are scarce since small businesses do not make enough to afford employees. There are few shops and fast-food restaurants open to the public, the ones that are, mostly cater to tourists and ex-pats.

“Although basic commodities are much more available than a year ago, their prices drive them beyond the reach of most consumers. Despite efforts at economic turnaround, shortage of foreign currency continues to fuel the illegal money market. This has resulted in serious fuel shortage, which has paralyzed industry and commerce while pushing unemployment to over 80 percent. Approximately 3 million Zimbabweans (mainly skilled and professional persons), have emigrated to neighboring countries - Australia, New Zealand, Europe and North America in search of jobs.”

-        MCC Report Book 2006

Though the city offers little comfort to poor people looking for jobs, the rural areas contain many people who do not have a source of income. Getting by one day a time through subsistence farming and bartering for goods. In Canada, I think of my future, what it holds and how I will get there. In Zimbabwe, life is incredibly different, how can you make goals for the future is your worries are rooted in the now, for today, with no guarantees about tomorrow?

While we were in country, the exchange rate climbed 1 dollar US to 250 billion. The prices in the stores are incredible and the cash registers cannot handle those kinds of numbers. The government decided to slash

9 zeros, but from what I have heard, the only benefit is, it’s easier to count.

Money isn’t everything. It’s a lot but it’s not everything. Capitalism offers a way out of poverty. Communism doesn’t. While making connections in Zimbabwe, what struck me time and time again, was the trust in God and the resolve to survive with a smile on your face. Each home is different, each person their own. God gives us the gifts; we choose how to use them. Education, compassion and love must be the foundation of family. The whole world needs a revolution. Each soul is placed and loved by God. No matter where you live, what you do or how much money you have. Isn’t the point of it all, just to love Him back?

The people here are so friendly, a warm greeting is very important, more than a smile and wave. I’ve noticed they would rather smile, shake your hand and say, how are you. They have an excellent way of relating to each other, of caring for one another. Everyone is a brother or sister. This is a necessary attitude to adopt when you need one another to survive.

I have flown 17 hours across the ocean to learn a great deal and learn how to make a difference.

A cultureshock to challenge my ignorance and discover what opportunities I have in this hurting world.

The people I have encountered are in real need. They trust in God to fill those needs and openly talk about following after Jesus. I am blessed by their positive attitudes and soft hearts. Sure, Canadians have good manners and are generally friendly to one another, but there is something different here.

A couple of my favorite places:

Jairos Jiri Craft Shop

• We found the Jairos Jiri Craft Shop off the beaten path offering gainful employment to disadvantaged and disabled people, raising money for rehabilitate and skills training to integrate into society. The handmade gifts are beautiful and inspiring, I found a few trinkets for my friends and family back home and spent 1.4 trillion (Zim) dollars!

• Jairos Jiri started creating facilities in the 1940’s for disadvantaged and disabled people in Rhodesia / Zimbabwe, using Christian principles of charity, patience and non-judgmental tolerance.

• The Jairos Jiri Association exists to assist to rehabilitate disabled persons within Zimbabwe to learn and be trained skills so they are empowered to manage their lives and become responsible citizens of society.

• There is great need for assistance with over 6.500 people each year being helped through outreach and follow-up integration programmes. The types of disabilities people have is very wide and the help needs to be tailored to their requirements.

Amagugu Evangeli Radio

In Bulawayo, and surrounding areas, I was engaged to produce and film a promotional video for a charity called, The Tide, to bring awareness to the needs of the people of Zimbabwe and attract fundraising for the radio broadcast to update programming and upgrade equipment.

• The Tide operates in affiliation with Amagugu Evangeli, a local radio station transmitting shortwave gospel all over Zimbabwe in one of its native languages, Ndbele.

• At the time, the studio in Bulawayo was locally operated by a one-man show, Jonah Nyoni. Jonah pre-records and directs the program, edits it immediately on his computer and sends it to South Africa to be broadcast on shortwave. There are no luxuries in his studio, just the basics. Currently, they have three different programs, one for men, one for women and one for youth. Jonah likes the Youth program the best, seeing as he is a young adult and he believes that the youth of Zimbabwe need to hear the gospel.

In Canada, it seems like we don’t need God, and have, in many cases, even removed Him from the equation. Roughly 90% of the population follow Christianity compared to 54% of Canadians. Despite the oppressive and violent government, there is laughter and dancing, singing and praying. A true joy and freedom that only the Creator can bring.

Warm country, warm hearts. Except for the house is cold, much like the AC is on. Yet, no such thing exists. Sitting in the house with a long sleeve shirt and a sweater on, I am still chilled. It’s not that bad, I am a Snowbird but the nights and mornings are frosty. Who knew that in Winter, Africa would be cold? I cannot complain too much since the days are perfect and I still got a nice tan!

Isaiah’s Umuzi Wothando “Every child held in God’s hand”

Our goal is step outside our comfort zone and serve where we can while we’re here. Not too hard to do at the vibrant little orphanage in town, Isaiah’s Umuzi Wothando “Every child held in God’s hand”.

• The situation in Zimbabwe has left people struggling, with nowhere to turn. Thankfully, after a number of babies were found abandoned in nearby fields, this place arose to fill a great need.

• The 15 babies are happy, and soak up all the attention we can give them. An orphanage for babies with room for older kids who need it. It is such a sweet place. The workers really love the children. There is a playroom, and a nice big yard to run around in. We watched as the babies had their heads shaved. Not something they all enjoy but they do love every minute of attention we give them; it was hard to leave.

I love to travel because it gives me a change in perspective. The bubble bursts when you can no longer live in North American excess any longer. It’s too comfortable, addictive, unhealthy. Largely, travelling is for myself. I have a desire to learn about everything. I like the big picture and the tiny details. Language and history and art and architecture fascinate me. I am challenged and flourish with new ideas. I collect knowledge, photographs, video footage to remind me that my problems are “first-world” problems. In the first-world, I want to keep my eyes open to see the third. I believe local missions are equally important and suffering is found directly at home. I want to give time, money and prayers to those who aren’t as fortunate. I have privilege and I strive to see beyond it. Trauma affects us all, we can all relate to emotional, physical, and spiritual stress. Now, with a family of my own, we struggle financially. This allows me the empathy to love the poor and be grateful for the Canadian system that affords me some opportunity.

We traveled on the highways at a familiar 100 kms. Yay metric system. It was a beautiful drive; the country is filled with amazing trees and many mountains. There are lots of little family units with a few huts, some chickens, goats, cows or donkeys along the way. Since there is virtually no light pollution, the atmosphere is so clear and the stars are breathtaking. So immense and vast is the night sky. Looking up in the unfamiliar southern hemisphere means not a constellation was recognizable.

Another goal on this trip was to get to Matabeleland, home to the resourceful Mtshabezi Mission, located an hour and a half south of Bulawayo, an area medically underserved with little access to quality healthcare and education.

The mission, started in 1906, has grown to include a primary school (675 pupils), a secondary school (1,000 pupils – mostly boarders), a Bible School, a 110-bed hospital and various agricultural endeavours. During this time of continued hardships in Zimbabwe, however, these resources face many challenges. We asked what struggles they are under and how we can help.

Mtshabezi Hospital

• Upon receiving a tour at the hospital, we noticed there were only about 7 in-patients at the time including the male, female, maternity and children's wards. The emergency department was a little busier with 5 or 6 waiting to see the doctor when we came. There is one doctor. Though they had not had one for 8 months prior to her arrival.

• Many people can simply not afford to get to the hospital.

• The primary issue is food, feeding the patients the proper diet to help them recover.

• The pharmacy supply is very low and most of the drugs they need are not available in the country at all.

• The lab equipment that tests urine, blood and fecal matter is currently not functional.

• Many machines are broken and have no means fix them.

Often as I take photographs, I feel hidden behind my lens. As if, I’m not really viewing the sadness I see through the lens, rather it’s a movie, a thing that’s happening outside of reality. This, I think, is a common feeling for Photographers as it allows for documentation in the most difficult and uncomfortable places.

After a quick search, I found a GoFundMe “Friends of Mtshabezi Hospital”  raising money to renovate and upgrade the rural hospital. Any amount of money is helpful as your dollar goes a long way in Zimbabwe.

Now especially after the Covid19 Pandemic has contributed to the country’s already declining economic situation.

Mtshabezi Primary School

What a joy, the kids loved to see us and we love to see them! I took their pictures and video and they were fighting to get themselves in it. I flipped the viewfinder around on my camera and a huge crowd of kids gathered to laugh at and watch themselves.

There are three official languages in Zimbabwe: Ndbele, Shona and English. Kids who can afford the fees and uniforms, learn to speak English in school.

We talked with Rachel, a teacher who has decided to stay and teach here even though she does not earn enough to feed her own family. She is determined to stay for the children in the school and her class and feels she cannot leave or let the children down.

Most of the Nation’s teachers there have gone off to neighbouring countries to find work. Countries like South Africa and Botswana offer work for a larger salary.

When we arrived in Rachel's classroom, it was break-time. The teacher just finished asking them to get their snacks out to eat. Maybe 1 child at every table of 6 had something to eat. I asked Rachel about this; she said both the students and teachers are hungry and therefore have a hard time making progress at school.

Mtshabezi Bible Institute

• About 20 students are enrolled in a three-year course, learning to study the Bible and become evangelists. Since most young adults speak English, Michelle and I enjoyed making friends over the few days we spent.

• We felt very welcome to be invited to their weekly youth worship service held in an old water tank. A small but very passionate group. To make their space more comfortable, they cut out windows and placed benches inside. When those African voices sang loud the harmonies reverberate around the large metal space. I came away with a new perspective on what worship looks like in a different context, in a different culture.

While in Matabeleland, we climbed a rock mountain called Lupate (Loopawty) twice. Once to sit on top and watch the sunset, and once to watch the sunrise. It was incredibly beautiful and you could see for kilometres away. From that vantage point, I was struck by the sheer lack of development in the villages where most people have small farms with no running water or electricity.  I was told there were baboons, black mambas and other snakes up there so we were delighted to come down the mountain without seeing more than a rock rabbit!

Traditions in rural Africa run deep

As the days get hotter and the moon fuller, the time we have left gets shorter. I wish I had more time to explore this place and feel the wonderful warmth of these people.

The highlight of my trip was a rural visit to a family farm. My first thoughts are of colours and textures. Red clay and dry grass, ant mounds and spiky trees. Next, the love of people coming together to learn about and help one another. A place where folk traditions have survived in dance and pottery. 

We drove with Ma Dla Dla to her mother’s village. This was a special opportunity, full of grace, since her father had passed away a month prior and the family was still observing his death. Women and children populate the village as some men from the village have gone to the cities or joined the mining industry in search of employment and some have met the low life expectancy rate.

Gram Dladla gave me the tour. She showed me their brick mold and how they make each brick. One outhouse was falling down and was out of commission while another was being built. Other small outbuildings were for dressing and sleeping. The rafters were full of braids of garlic and dried vegetables. As an aspiring off-grid homesteader, I could appreciate this homestead and all the work it takes. Even still, their version a bit more primitive than mine.

The main cooking and living area is a round clay-brick hut with a thatched roof, some ventilation and no door. It is customary for men and women to sit on opposite sides of the hut. There is a beautiful display of clay pottery on decorative clay walls.

Here, on this private property, I could see the gray legs of black boys running in the sandy soil. Around the countryside the hills are peppered with granite, and the grass is dry. The wind whips up the sand from beneath the dry grass. Soil fertility is low. The staple food is corn. A cash crop monoculture that is not sustainable and does not send nutrients back to the soil.  More proof Big Agri is around every corner monopolizing the industry with chemicals and bioengineering, edging small farmers and businesses to ruin.

To do our part and inject cash into local business while we visited, and to have a little fun, we travelled back to the greater Bulawayo area, where we had mostly been staying with the Shenk family. Jake and Nancy Shenk were long time missionaries in Zimbabwe for the Be in Christ denomination and supported many local initiatives. Staying there offered us real experiences in real communities. I spent a month traveling around with their granddaughter, Michelle and they even let us borrow the car!

It hurts the brain to drive on the left side of the road and sit in the passenger seat to drive. The turn signal is on the right side of the wheel too, something to get used to. There aren't many road rules here so it’s an adventure just to drive around.

First stop, lunch at the local café. A great little place on the site of a former horse race track. There are still many horses walking about but the races are not running anymore. This café is about the only place to go out to eat, everywhere else is closed.

Our next stop, the Chipengali Wildlife Orphanage, home to all sorts of African animals. Rhino, Hyena, Lions, Monkeys, Snakes, Leopard, Crocs, Wild Dogs, etc. Though they have a home, sadly all the animals are quite mangey and skinny. The place does not have enough frequent visitors to feed the animals properly. We were their only visitors that day. 

Michelle drove for about an hour and a half toward Harare (the capital city of Zimbabwe) and was very nervous about the upcoming Police road blocks. Most of the time, when they see you’re white, they slow you down but wave you through. Sometimes we were asked what we’re doing and where we are going but thankfully we were able to make it through all six without hassle. Our destination, Antelope Park, Zimbabwe's leading private game reserve.

We stayed in Antelope Park for one night just to wake up early the next morning and walk with lions.  What an incredible experience, we really did walk with them (Mana and Lozi). We pet them and took lots of pictures. We followed all of the rules (don't touch the face, stay with the group, no crouching, etc.) and were informed that many people thought the rules did not apply to them and in some cases felt the consequences.

Did you know that one swipe of a Lion's paw can contain 1 tonne of force?

Next, we set out to ride an elephant. This proved to be a tad scarier than walking with the lions. I don't know whether I was a little more awake this time or what. We shared the elephant, Chimba, but he wasn’t in the mood for cooperation when we first got on. He kept walking backwards, I was seated at the back and felt like he was going to sit and I’d go flying. Finally, we relaxed and so did he, we hiked around the park many feet in the air, we went up and down a hill, also scary and requires technique. We sat down and got up again, and when I fed him corn nuts, he grabbed on to my hand with his great big shnoz. Their skin is so rough and leathery.

Maxwell, our Ele driver was telling us about his life. His parents both passed away and now has to provide for his four sisters. I noticed his shoes had holes. “Only one pair of shoes to wear everywhere, I wear them for work and I wear them for church. And I do extra jobs on Saturday to help my sisters go to school." Meanwhile, most of us have 10 or 20 pairs of shoes, one for every occasion. Maxwell made an impression on me. Maybe because we shared an elephant ride around the park. Or maybe because his story was hard yet he told it with joy and gratitude to God who blesses him when he needs it. Total dependence on faith.

After dinner and sitting by the campfire, we were serenaded by traditional Zimbabwe songs, a Miner's own song, “Africa, My Africa," and Russian love songs. It was incredible to be sitting under the vibrant night sky with all these different people and communicate the best we could.

Heading to bed late, in the pitch black, Michelle heard a noise. She saw something tan, and about the height of a lion. She screamed and turned around and I screamed and just started running. I quickly learned that this is not the right thing to do as this animal began to run after me. Later learning you are supposed to stay calm and not make sudden movements, or they think you are playing. Then Michelle started laughing; this fierce lion was really just a young female impala (they are much like deer, but smaller). She was very tame and let us pet her and hang about. We found out the next day, she had been brought up in the park, bottle fed and loved humans.

Time to meet up with Michelle's Aunt and Uncle, to take us on a tour of Hwange National Park: Home of the Big Five!

We stayed in a beautiful soft sided cabin with a nice lodge and a watering hole right outside our doors. What a sight! Observing the wild Elephants, Warthogs, Sable, Impala, Zebra, Buffalo, Waterbuck and Bushbuck in their element, up close but not too personal was an experience I won’t soon forget. The bird species are plentiful, colourful and very beautiful.

One of the workers told us that he only earns 40 billion a month. This is now less than 40 cents US. That is not even enough to buy a loaf of bread. How are these people expected to survive and provide for their kids or siblings?

We drove through Hwange Game Park and saw Hippo, Giraffe, Baboons, Crocodiles, and all the others I mentioned. At the top of the Guavala Platform, the scene was clear. Not a crocodile in sight, and I wanted to get a closer view. The giraffes were posted at the watering hole and had no qualms about me approaching, until I got too close for comfort and the lumbering beasts ran in the opposite direction.

Then we travelled to the World Heritage Site, Victoria Falls, where we saw the world’s largest sheet of falling water over the Zambezi River. Loving called the “Thundering Smoke” by locals, we walked among the jungle and into the clearing where you could fall over the edge of the cliff if you got too close. The constant spray from the falls creates a dance of rainbows and you can watch in awe as tourists swim in the Devil’s Pool at the top.

“When the river flow is at a certain level, usually between September and December, a rock barrier forms an eddy with minimal current, allowing adventurous swimmers to splash around in relative safety in front of the point where the water cascades over the falls.”

"Devils Pool Victoria Falls and Livingstone Island Tour" Retrieved 4 January 2021.

To top it off, we lost our marbles and went down the gorge for the “Adrenaline Package.”

The Gorge Swing: A bungee jump from 400 feet above the ground, free falling for 70 metres (200 feet) at the speed of 120kms an hour, swinging back and forth a couple times, they pull you back up to the top. TWICE.  The second time was way better, but scarier, I knew what was coming.

The Flying Fox: I ran off a platform and went straight across the top of the gorge on a tight wire. There is no drop just a straight line from one side of the gorge to the other. Similar to flying I imagine. A bird’s eye view from the top!

The Foofie Slide: A zipline which takes you from the top of the gorge to near the bottom and back again. No freefall felt safer, and it was a ride you could look around and enjoy. Basically, a snooze compared to the gorge swing. Just kidding, speeds reach 110kms!

Quite exhausted from the “Adrenaline Package” we headed home to Grandma Shenk’s house for Red Bush Tea and to finish the book series, No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency six book collection by Alexander McCall Smith. Although the setting is Botswana, it is very similar to what I have experienced here. The lovable main character, Mme Precious Ramotswe, also known as "The Miss Marple of Botswana” solves cases with humour and feminist gumption.

I am delighted to bring a piece of Africa to those of you who haven't yet had the opportunity to visit. It is life changing, eye opening and in many ways encouraging and nourishing. Though the nation is oppressed and there is hunger and poverty, everywhere you look life is lived abundantly. Communities are working together and finding solutions that work at the local level.

Every time I travel, the sights, sounds and smells are remarkable and worth it on their own. But what I really love is making connections with God's people. Our hearts and smiles shine light toward each other. There are many arguments about "missions trips" but If I stay at home and only send dollars to charities, I don’t ever get an understanding of real life outside of my own. It’s a reminder that the human race is all the same, and it is really our differences that make us great.

Thank you, Zim, for all your treasures.